The amaryllis has only leaves and no flower? These are the common reasons

An amaryllis can bloom over and over again for years. If the amaryllis does not bloom, but only sprouts leaves, something has gone wrong with the care around the year.

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a popular bulb flower in Advent because of its extravagant flowers. It is often bought new in November, but it is possible to keep an amaryllis over the summer and make it bloom every year. For this to work, however, it must be properly cared for throughout the year. Otherwise it can happen that the bulb sprouts many leaves, but no flower. Here are the most common reasons for this and how you can get your amaryllis to bloom.

The amaryllis was not properly fertilized

Flowering costs energy. Only well-nourished bulbs go into bloom. A waxed amaryllis demonstrates this strikingly. It blooms even without soil from the bulb alone. However, the energy must be returned to the storage organ, through proper fertilizing. Here, the timing is crucial with amaryllis. After flowering and throughout the growing season (spring to July), give the plant a complete fertilizer. Do not use nitrogen-rich houseplant fertilizers, such as those for green plants. Too much nitrogen unilaterally promotes leaf growth. Flower fertilizers contain more phosphorus. And: Cut off the flower stalk just above the bulb after blooming. This saves energy that does not have to be spent on seed formation and goes into the bulb. The leaves need to be preserved. They feed the bulb. From September, let the leaves dry up and then cut them off. Fertilizing is stopped as early as August.

You have given too much or too little moisture at the wrong time

Nutrition also includes water. However, if you water an amaryllis at the wrong time, it can ruin the flower. Once the fresh sprout is about 10 centimeters (4 inches) long, water regularly. From the end of July, water less and towards the end of August, stop watering altogether. The bulbs need to go into dormancy. If you continue to water the amaryllis, the leaves will remain green and there will be no flowering later. The reason: the natural rhythm of vegetation of the plants is disturbed.

You have not paid attention to the rest period of your amaryllis

Amaryllis need to rest in autumn to gain strength for new flowers. Therefore, during the months of September, October, the bulbs rest in a darker location in dry soil at cool temperatures around 16 ° C (61 °F). When the first green sprouts from the tip of the bulb, around November, the dormant period is over. Now put the bulb in new potting soil and water lightly. In addition to the supply of water, the plant regulates its rhythm of life according to the temperature and amount of light.

You have chosen the wrong location at unfavorable temperatures.

The location of the freshly planted amaryllis must be bright and sunny. If a plant stands too dark, it will not bloom. Rising temperatures accelerate flowering. In winter, the amaryllis appreciates daytime temperatures of 18 to 20 °C (64 to 68 °F) and a night setback to around 16 °C (61 °F). Experience has shown that it is easier to plan flowering for the spring. It is often difficult to achieve a flowering period from Christmas onwards under conditions of residential warmth. Cosy warmth loves amaryllis only at the stage of growth from spring to summer. Therefore, you can put them outside in the garden at 24-26 °C (75-79 °F).

You have caught a lazy flowering variety

Large-flowered Hippeastrum hybrids are particularly willing to bloom. But all other quality varieties are selected for abundant flowering. With cheap offers you cannot be sure. When buying an amaryllis, take a close look at the bulb: Amaryllis bulbs must be healthy and should have a circumference of at least 20 cm (8 inches).