Sometimes the place for a currant bush is not ideal, then it needs to change location. Here is what to consider for a successful move.
Wrong place? Grown too big? A change of residence? There are many reasons to replant a currant bush. It is easier to do this if the shrub has not been established in its growing location for many years, because transplanting is a real feat, especially for older plants. If the woody plant has already been growing in its previous location for more than ten years, you should generally consider whether it makes sense to move it.
At 15 years, the currant is usually outdated and should be replaced by a new shrub. It is then easier, for example, to propagate the existing currant and continue to cultivate the young plant. With young and healthy plants transplanting is quite possible. Here you can learn how this will be a success.
When is the best time for transplanting?
In principle, the currant is best transplanted during dormancy, that is, in the state without foliage. Autumn is preferable to spring. The roots can then take root in the still warm soil at the new location. The next spring, the plant can then take off directly. This is important because currants bloom early, so the shrub must perform at its best early in the year.
In principle, very hot weather and ground frost are reasons for exclusion for a transplanting action.
Transplanting currants: this is how it works.
It makes sense to prune currants two weeks before transplanting them, which is necessary anyway. This way, the plant will have to supply fewer shoots through its reduced root system after the move. Generally, currant bushes tend to be shallow rooted, so the root ball that is cut out should be wide rather than deep. How far you dig into the soil with the spade from the base of the shoot depends on the size of the plant. Ideally, the line should be oriented to the crown projection area.
Before actually digging, remove any loose soil that is on top of the root ball. Then poke around the plant with the spade so that a circle is formed. Once all the lateral roots have been cut, poke under the center from the side and carefully jerk to check whether the shrub is already mobile. When doing this work, avoid stepping on the root ball with your foot so that as much soil as possible sticks to it.
If the soil hangs loosely on the root ball, slide a tissue cloth or large piece of plastic wrap under the root ball and close the ends around the root neck. This keeps the soil on the plant. Replanting is ideally done promptly.
Planting currants in the new location
The new planting hole should be sufficiently large, the soil prepared with compost. This is where the currant bush is placed. Injured roots are cut smooth with scissors. The bush should not be placed deeper than before. The protective tissue is pulled out from under the root ball, the planting hole is filled with improved excavation. Around the woody plant is formed a watering rim, the soil is gently mudded, respectively, consolidated with your hands to make root connection. Finally, add mulch material to the surface to reduce evaporation.
After planting currants, the soil should be watered from time to time in the beginning, despite the dormancy of the vegetation, this will prevent it from drying out. Only during frost in any case do not use the watering can.
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